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Israeli Wines

Safed Winery: Winemaking in the Mystical City of Tzfat

Dovid Schwartzberg
Dovid Schwartzberg

There are wineries that impress you with grand tasting rooms and polished marketing, and then there are wineries that leave an impression because of the people behind the bottle. Safed Winery (יקב צפת העתיקה), tucked away among the ancient stone alleyways of Tzfat's Old City, is undoubtedly the latter.

I arrived on a Friday afternoon with my family, just hours before Shabbat. The streets of Tzfat were beginning to quiet as visitors hurried through the galleries and winding lanes. Despite the pre-Shabbat rush, owner and winemaker Moshe Alon warmly welcomed us into his winery. He was clearly busy preparing for the weekend, but he still found the time to share the philosophy that makes his wines unlike any others I have encountered in Israel.

 

Where Wine Meets Kabbalah

One glance around the winery reveals that this is more than simply a place where grapes become wine. The walls display artwork inspired by Jewish mysticism, and many of the labels carry deep spiritual symbolism.

As Moshe explained, Kabbalah is not merely a marketing theme—it is woven into the very vineyard itself.

Perhaps the most fascinating part of our conversation was learning that the vineyard is trained according to the six lower sefirot (Vav HaTachtonot) of Kabbalah. Moshe told me that only he and one other grower cultivate vines in this unique fashion, shaping and directing the vines according to these spiritual principles. His vineyard, located about thirty minutes from the winery in the Upper Galilee, is not simply planted for efficiency or yield. Every row has purpose, every direction carries meaning.

Whether one approaches this from a spiritual perspective or simply appreciates the artistry behind it, there is no denying that the vineyard reflects decades of thought, passion, and dedication.

From Diamond Cutter to Winemaker

Moshe's journey to wine is as remarkable as his wines.

Before entering the wine world, he worked in the diamond industry, where precision and bringing out the hidden beauty of raw material were essential skills. He often compares diamonds to grapes: just as a diamond's value depends on how carefully it is cut, great wine begins with maximizing the potential hidden inside each grape.

After returning to Israel and becoming observant, Moshe studied Torah in Tzfat while also learning winemaking, eventually studying at Tel-Hai College under renowned Israeli winemaker Arkadi Papikian. In 1995, when boutique wineries were still almost unheard of in Israel, he founded Safed Winery in the heart of the ancient city.

The winery has remained a true family operation ever since. Today, the second generation is deeply involved in every stage of production—from harvest and fermentation to bottling, labeling, and welcoming visitors into the winery.

A Vineyard in the Mountains

The vineyard lies in the famed Upper Galilee wine region near Sifsufa, Meron, and Dalton—one of Israel's premier growing areas.

At elevations reaching approximately 800–850 meters above sea level, the vineyards benefit from cool nights, warm days, and volcanic basalt mixed with clay soils. Cabernet Sauvignon is the flagship variety, although Merlot, Gewürztraminer, and Viognier are also grown.

Moshe believes exceptional wine begins long before harvest. Every decision—from rootstock selection to vine training—is intended to produce grapes that express the full character of the Galilee.

Tasting the Wines

No winery visit is complete without tasting the wines.

The first bottle that came home with me was Four Rivers (Arba HaNeharot / ארבע הנהרות), made from Cabernet Sauvignon. It has become one of the winery's signature wines, and judging by the number of customers I have seen purchasing it by the case on multiple visits, it has earned a loyal following.

I also purchased Shalom Bayit, one of the winery's most distinctive creations.

Moshe smiled as he explained the concept behind it: the wine is intentionally crafted to be half sweet and half dry. Like a marriage, he said, life often begins with sweetness. Over time, challenges arise, and things may become a little drier. The wisdom is remembering the sweetness that existed at the beginning and learning to appreciate both the sweetness and the dryness together.

It is a beautiful metaphor—and fittingly, a very enjoyable wine. The slight sweetness reminded me of a lighter port-style profile without becoming overly rich.

The wines were all very reasonably priced, making it easy to take home more than one bottle. The only exception was an older 2018 Port-style wine, whose higher price reflects the additional years of aging.

Before we left, Moshe poured us a taste of his new brandy. It was powerful yet remarkably smooth, with flavors that lingered long after each sip. You could literally feel the warmth spread across your palate and through your gums—a memorable finish to the tasting.

More Than a Winery

Visitors to Safed Winery can also watch a short film explaining the vineyard, harvest, and winemaking process. Unfortunately, because we visited on Erev Shabbat, time was short and we had to save it for another visit.

This wasn't my first time at Safed Winery, and it certainly won't be my last. Every time I visit, I notice the same thing: locals and tourists alike leave carrying boxes of wine, particularly Four Rivers and Shalom Bayit. That kind of loyalty cannot be manufactured—it is earned over years of consistency, authenticity, and heartfelt craftsmanship.

Final Thoughts

Israel is home to many outstanding wineries, each with its own philosophy and style. Safed Winery stands apart because it reflects the city in which it was born.

In Tzfat, history, spirituality, and creativity meet in every narrow stone alley. At Safed Winery, those same qualities find expression in every bottle. Whether one is drawn by the wines, the family story, or the fascinating integration of Kabbalah into viticulture, a visit offers far more than a tasting—it offers a glimpse into a uniquely Jewish approach to winemaking.

If your travels bring you to the mystical city of Tzfat, set aside time to wander the Old City's ancient streets, step into Safed Winery, and experience firsthand how faith, family, and fine wine have come together for more than three decades.


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